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The influence of international flavors on my cooking is unmistakable. I have always been an adventurous eater. My family would laugh and joke that I would eat anything, now they join in chorus, “Ooo, that’s tasty”!
Latin American
food is of my favorites! Most specifically for this post, I LOVE MEXICAN FOOD! I
love its depth of flavor, and regional varieties. The fresh and dried chilies,
the earthiness, the commitment to savory without being afraid of flavorful
spiciness; I am a true fan. Stop by Anytime!
The influence of international flavors on my cooking is unmistakable. I have always been an adventurous eater. My family would laugh and joke that I would eat anything, now they join in chorus, “Ooo, that’s tasty”!
LOVE, I
tell you!
I’ve always
held Latin culture and awareness close to my heart. I grew up with aunts who
taught me to speak and understand Spanish at a young age. The world became my oyster. Math deficient, I discovered
that I had a talent for “picking up” languages, and an interest in world
cultures. This led me to also studying French and German. Academically, I
excelled at Spanish literature and poetry recitation competitions. We will NOT
get excited about the details right now, but as a preteen, I knew every Menudo,
Luis Miguel, and Selena song by heart. Our
four month old is already a fan of José Feliciano. Mexico was the first country
I traveled to outside of the United States. There, I met with a welcoming connection
to their culture and history that brought me closer in appreciation of my own
heritage. Fast forward to the present day Brooklyn, we live in a neighborhood
that is a great Latin heritage mainstay. There are Latin specialty stores and
bodegas on every corner.
Ethnically,
Latin foods remind me of the warmth and generosity of James Island Soul Food. I
fantasize about culinary vacations where I’m posted for weeks in various kitchens
shadowing a series of Mexican Grandmothers. The validation of my personal
connection to Latin America felt validated after watching this
Henry Louis Gates’ series. It educates the influence of African lineage on
Latin America. Food is often highlighted as an important elemental connection.
My favorite
Mexican soup, Pazolé is a dish with an extensive Pre-Columbian history. Traditionally
served on special occasions, I could just about eat it every day. Pazolé is a soup
of richly developed broth, hominy corn, and meat - often pork, chicken, or
turkey. There are red Pazolés (Pazolé Rojos) with a base of Mexican red chilies,
and green Pazolés (Pazolés Verdes) made with tomatillos.
We’ll be
working out a Pazolé Verde with Tomatillos (to-ma-tee-yōs) as the foundation.
Tomatillos
at first glance may look both familiar and a little strange.
A fruit
that is often referred to as the “Mexican Green Tomato”, tomatillos are
actually members of the gooseberry family covered by inedible paper thin-like
husks. Imagine a green tomato wearing a ridged paper wind breaker jacket.
We take
this Pazolé, in all of its brothy succulence, and then do it up Bon Appégeechee
style, equipped with toppings. Optional Toppings include: Crispy fried (or
baked) tortilla strips, avocado slices, sliced fresh radishes, fresh cilantro homemade
quick pickled red onions, crema (sour cream), and cheese. Sometimes it seems as
if I can't eat anything without cheese, here you see white cheddar; however,
we’ve also served this soup with grated cotija and sliced queso fresco. The
recipes for baked tortilla strips and a quick pickle of red onion slices follow
this recipe; However, I digress.
Nothing to
be intimidated by, this soup constructs itself in stages all coming together in
one pot in the end. It may be helpful to
read this recipe in its entirety to become familiar with its levels before
diving in.
If you want
an idea for a wonderful way to spend some time in your kitchen, MAKE THIS SOUP!
If you want to transport yourself to Mexico on vacation subliminally, MAKE THIS
SOUP! If you want to invite some friends over to show them what new you’ve got going
on in the kitchen, MAKE THIS SOUP!
Keeping
It Real Disclosure:
If you come over for a visit, don’t
be surprised if we MAKE THIS SOUP! It’s become a real household favorite.
Bon Appégeechee Shrimp Pazole Verde:
Pazolé Verde de Camarones
With Love from the Bon Appégeechee
Kitchen
Yield: 6 - 8 people Main Course
Special
Equipment: Food
Processor or Blender and a stock or large pot
Phase
I: The Stock
Keeping
It Real Disclosure:
I’m starting early in this post.
Homemade stock is a glorious thing. It is infectious. Once you have it
available in your kitchen, it makes you want to cook things with it.
This is a listing of the vegetables
we used in this particular stock. Making stock is a well flexible process.
WHATEVER leftover raw vegetables you have available, use them. Don’t waste your
food. Save the stems when you’re cleaning your greens or trimming broccoli. Save
those produce bags that you grab at the grocery store that you don’t know what
to do with once you get home. Put your bits of vegetables in them. Once a week
get in there and make stock with whatever you have. You’ll be glad you did. You’ll
feel satisfied and more connected to your food.
P.S.: If you don’t have vegetable bits to
make your stock with, feel free to purchase your favorite boxed vegetable stock.
Side note: We’ll be using approximately 1
quart of stock made from this batch for this soup. If you are using fresh
shrimp, once you peel your shrimp, feel free to throw the shells in to the
reserved stock to convert some of the vegetable stock into shrimp stock.
However, if you’re using frozen peeled and deveined shrimp, feel free to
fortify your vegetable stock with 1 – 2 servings of shrimp bullion.
The
Madness: The Ingredients
Yield: Approximately 3 – 4 quarts of
homemade stock
10 quart stock pot
1 dried ancho chili, destem and
deseeded
1 dried guajillo chili, destem and
deseeded
6 dried shitakes mushrooms
½ small head of cabbage
1 small red onion
½ medium white onion
3 stalks of celery
2 roma tomatoes
Stalks from: 1 bunch of broccoli
rabe
Tops from 1 bunch of radishes
Stalks from ½ head of napa cabbage
Stalks from ½ bunch of collard
greens
Toss all vegetables in to the large
pot. Fill the pot with water, making sure that all vegetable bits are
thoroughly submerged or floating in water. Simmer the stock 1 – 4 hours,
depending on how much time you have in the kitchen to make stock. The longer
you simmer, the more fortified your stock will be; however, even after 1 hour
your stock is still richer than if you used plain water in your recipe. Be sure
to check on the pot every hour or so make sure water levels remain consistent. If
in the end, you’re within a half hour of straining your vegetables from your
stock, simply allow the vegetables to continue to cook down without adding
additional water. You don’t want to water down your stock, but rather keep good
consistent flavor.
Strain the vegetables from the
stock. Throw away the simmered out vegetables. Pour your stock in to storage
container. Allow it to cool completely before refrigerating, or freezing. We
find that storing them in large quart containers work well. You can find them
at your local dollar store, or just save them whenever you order large Chinese
take-out soup.
The
Salsa Verde
The
Madness: The Ingredients
Oven
Roasted Vegetables
1 head of roasted garlic
1 medium white onion
8 large tomatillos
Stove
Top Roasted Vegetables
1 large poblano pepper, deseeded
and destemmed
2 medium serrano
peppers, deseeded and destemmed
½ bunch of cilantro, trimmed
Preheat Oven to 500˚F
Prepare the vegetables for roasting:
Keep the garlic head whole, paper on
and everything. Place on baking sheet. Slice
your onion in half; peel away the outer paper membrane, and trim the root off.
Place on backing sheet flat side down. Peel the tomatillos of their paper husk.
They may feel slightly sticky on the outside. This is common. Rinse the
tomatillos well, dry them, and leave them whole. I know that this may sound sacraledge, but
leave the vegetables dry. No olive oil, no salt, roast them dry.
Roast for 20 - 25 minutes, until the
tomatillos start to blacken on top. When you pull out the vegetables the
tomatillos will deflat and some will become soft and molten, having just
started to burst. The onions will have lost most of their firmness, gaining bit
of char color on the flatside and top. The garlic head will still be in tact
with soft sweet concentrated cloves inside.
Stovetop Roasting: Poblano and
Serrano Peppers
Wash and dry your peppers. Using
tongs, place the peppers one at time on top of an open flame burner over high
heat. Turn by using tongs, allow all sides of the peppers to roast and
blacken. They’ll look burnt. Never fear,
place the blistered and blackened peppers in to a zip lock bag or airtight
container to steam through and cool. The
steam separates the charred exterior from the actual flesh of the peppers,
leaving beautifully roasted peppers. Allow the peppers to cool for 20 – 25
minutes to allow you to be able to handle them. Once the peppers have cooled,
destem and deseed the peppers by making a slit down the side of the pepper.
Turn the peppers over to expose the blackened exterior, using the flat side of
the knife scrape the charred outside of the pepper. Now you have just the flesh
of the roasted peppers, no stems, no seeds, no blackened exterior. There may be
bits of char left on the outside. Some rinse their peppers after scraping to
make sure that all of the char has been removed. I don’t. I believe in rinsing
roasted peppers, all the roasted depth of flavor you’ve just imparted in to the
pepper runs down the kitchen drain. Simply take your time in cleaning the
peppers and you’ll be able to clear all of the blackened bits.
To the Food Processor:
Roughly chop the roasted onion
halves and the roasted and cleaned poblano and serrano peppers. Add them to the
processor. Add the tomatillos, be sure to collect and add any juices that run
from them as well.
Gentle peel the paper from the
garlic, revealing the roasted cloves within, add the peeled cloves to the
onions, tomatillos, and peppers. Also to the processor add the ½ bunch of
cilantro, having trimmed its very bottoms, but include stems and all.
Process these ingredients until the
mixture is blended to a thick salsa.
Soup
Vegetables & Shrimp
2 large carrots, peeled and diced
1 large white onion, peeled and
diced
1 large orange pepper, diced
1 long green Italian pepper, diced
2 tbsps. extra virgin olive oil
1 large 28oz can of Hominy, drained
2 lbs. of 26 – 30 count shrimp,
shelled and deveined
Wash and dry your vegetables. Into a
large soup or stock pot (such as the pot you used to make the stock in earlier)
add the 2 tbsps. of extra virgin olive oil over medium heat. Add the diced
carrots and onions to the pan. Sauté these vegetables until the onions just
start to turn translucent. Add in the hominy. Continue to cook and combine the
vegetables in with the hominy for 3 – 5 minutes. Add in the salsa verde from
the food processor to the vegetable hominy mixture. Add approximately two cups
of stock to the mixed salsa, vegetable, hominy mixture.
At this point, taste for seasoning.
Add salt according to taste a little at a time. Remember you can always add seasoning,
you can’t take seasoning away.
Simmer soup for at LEAST 30 minutes
to allow the flavors to meld. If you simmer the soup longer and you find that
it has thickened a bit too much, add additional stock in ½ cup increments,
every ½ hour. I prefer this soup with a viscosity between that of a rich soup
and a light stew (not too think, not to thin). We generally simmer soup for an
hour or so. Know that the longer you
allow a soup to simmer, the more depth of flavor you’ll have. At this point,
your soup can be turned off until you are within 10 – 15 minutes of serving.
Once you are ready to serve add in the
shrimp. We generally poach the shrimp directly in the soup at a very light
simmer for about 5 – 7 minutes, or until the shrimp are pink. I’m also interested
roasting the shrimp and laying them in the soup. If you try roasting before I
do, let me know what you think.
In all honesty, this soup is a great
deal simpler to make that the structure of the details convey. All of the parts
come together in one pot as a whole.
Consider this skinny outline now
that you’ve read the recipe:
1. Make you stock
2. Clean and Prep all of your
vegetables and shrimp. Shrimp should be kept refrigerated.
3. Roast your stove top vegetables
4. As your stove top vegetables are cooling, roast your oven vegetables. The two should be ready for further prep just about the same time, in about 20 – 25 minutes.
5. Take your oven roasted vegetables from the oven. Allow them to stand.
6. Clean your stove top vegetables of their char, seeds, and stems.
7. Process everything that goes in to the food processor (don’t forget the cilantro). Allow that salsa to sit.
8. Sauté soup vegetables, add hominy, add salsa. Simmer. Patience and a little extra stock go a long way here.
9. Add shrimp. Poach. (or roast)
10. Eat … and as always, Enjoy!
xo, Bon Appégeechee
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